Seems to be a routine on the GR10. Since you usually end in a village, the day is: steep climb, walk all day, steep decent into the village.
Day 2 was such a day. Again I was last out of the gite at 7:30. It’s nice to get an early start before the sun starts beating, but bed is so comfortable. After a good climb and the hours of walking, I arrived in Sare, a nice little village on the trail. Picked a cafe for lunch and found Carol and Mick, the Aussie couple, mid lunch. Ate, sent a postcard, got a baguette and other food and set off.


That afternoon had me in another little village where I found a campsite/gite for the night. Aussie showed up a bit later.
Had a nice evening chatting with a German pilgrim, munching on bread and cheese. Laundry dries fast when there is a heat wave going on. Did about 15 miles.
Day 3 was another good day. Small breakfast and then to the trail. A nice walk through fields, yes and roads. The hours in had me at a gite in the middle of nowhere. The Aussie had just arrived, so we sat for omelettes and juice.

A long hot afternoon (miss the green tunnel!), and a longish walk to town, but is in Biddaray, another quaint village with a very old church. Eventually, sitting at the outdoor cafe was me, the Aussie, French guy from the campsite, a young couple (French and American) that we recognized from the campsite, the women hiking together also from campsite and a single French woman that was hiking the other direction. So a nice little hiking crew. Another 15ish miles.
Then after getting settled in the gite and cleaning up, we all ended up back at the cafe for dinner: leg of duck, salad and creme brulee.

We asked them to make sandwiches for us for the next day since it was a hard day with no lunch spots.
Thankfully, the next day dawned overcast and misty. There’s been record breaking heat all over here for the last few days, so that was a nice change.

Today was a long and very steep up, walk along a ridges with a slight incline and then a terribly steep down to the town. It was a tough day, only 13 miles but it took all day. Missed out on some great views but happily traded them for a misty day with a breeze. Caught up with the Aussies (you have figured out that they start early but are slow), which was good because they had my sandwich.

We also stopped at the one water source of the day and stocked up.
The decent was way steeper then anything to date, one step down from repelling. Then along a ridge for a while, continuing down. The ridge trails here can be very narrow, with your outside pole often not hitting ground. It was here that I had to make way for a couple of guys on bicycles, heading up.
After a good walk on the road, I got to the village. The Frenchman from the last two nights was sitting in the yard of the church and made me understand that the gite wouldn’t open until 4:30, only 15 minutes. We told the same to two pilgrims that walked by.
We all piled in and got beds. Got some amazing hot chocolate at the chocolate cafe and got some food at the market.
Saw the Aussie chime into town but they were staying at the hotel across the street.

The hikers and another couple that I had met the night before all day for an amazing dinner of salad, pork with red peppers, carrots and peas in herbs de provence, roast potatoes with garlic and onion and dessert. Bread and wine of course.
The next day was scheduled to be 95F, so most were going to take a zero as it was to be a hard day with little water.

And now after a quick visit with my friend in Laborde, who we meet back in Cambodia, it’s finally time to start walking north!


  1. Hi Donald … I can almost feel the heat when reading your travel news. Hope it breaks soon !

  2. Midge Baudouin

    I keep thinking about the American food compared to some of your meals now. Seems like a nice refueling option. Also interesting comparing terrain and brain matter. Love and miss you. Have not caught many keepers in quite some time. But loving my lazy life. Xx